Friday, 6 July 2012

BEGINNERS' GUIDE TO BRA FITTING

It's bizarre how I - and many other members of femalekind, I am sure - will happily spend £100 on a pair of shoes that get worn maybe once a month, at most. The cost-per-wear is ridiculously high, justifying it as an investment purchase.

However, bras are a different story. After much discussion with girlfriends recently it seems we are all in the same boat - buy a cheap bra from Primark, wear and wash to death, and expect it to do wonders for our frontal department. It just doesn't happen. Why do we spend so little on something we wear so much? An American study cites that 75-85% of us wear the wrong bra size. Where are we going wrong?

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I had a rather upsetting episode yesterday (just before heading out to work, might I add) when I realised that despite my bra drawer busting at the seams NONE of my bras fit me, in any way, shape or form. This prompted research into the modern brassiere, speaking to bra fitters, bra retailers, and bra wearers (that's you!).
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If you think the bra you are wearing right now is uncomfortable then just be glad you didn't exist pre-1930: your waist would have been whittled to an unnaturally tiny size, with your breasts pushed up under your chin in a notoriously uncomfortable corset. However, even in this day and age it seems many of us are still suffering in silence, simply assuming that no bra will fit. I asked for opinions on Twitter and was immediately met with some quite definite responses. Seems I'm not the only one with boobs on the brain:


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Those who I have spoken to face-to-face about this agree that they have drawerfuls of underwear, yet only wear a couple. What can we do about this?! I resisted the urge to get yet another cheap and not-so-cheerful from Primark and started out on my quest for the perfect bra by visiting Manchester city centre's Debenhams, as recommended by friends.
 
I took a variety of sizes into the changing rooms (30D, 32C, and 34B, if you are interested) and once in there a bra-fitting specialist came to help. She bore no measuring tape, and simply told me "try a 34C". Er, that's actually the size I was wearing before that didn't fit, but thanks. So I was left to my own devices and finally plumped for the 32C after trying every combination possible. It fit okay, but I really wasn't sure whether I had done the right thing.

My pals at The éditeur have recently been nominated for Best Lingerie Retailer in the UK Lingerie Awards 2012 so I figured owner Annabel's brain would be the best to pick about fitting and where it is that most of us go wrong.

"The most common mistake most women make is wearing their bras too loose in the back but too small in the cup. The back should be fitted on the loosest hooks so when the bra ages/stretches you can tighten to maintain support. You want the back of the bra to be a tight as possible (as this is what gives the majority of support not the shoulder straps which is the common misconception) whilst still being comfortable, and your breast tissue should be fully enclosed within the cup. If you are bulging go up a cup size; if you are not filling go down a cup. The shoulder straps should be adjusted to a supportive but comfortable position." 



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A common complaint I came across when speaking to women was that pretty bras don't go to large enough - The éditeur actually stock from a 30 back size to a G cup. Take a look at Elle Macpherson basics in particular, which provide great support. 

With regards to bra care, Annabel added: "It's best to hand wash bras as they will last longer, don't use fabric conditioner as it deteriorates elastane, don't dry on a radiator as the heat can melt the plastic stopper which stops the wire from popping out. Lingerie should be the first consideration when dressing as it makes such a difference to how your clothes look on you. It's important to have a few different bras styles in your drawer, including a t-shirt bra to give a smooth appearance under tight fitting clothes, a balconette bra to give uplift and to go under low scoop neck tops, a plunge bra to go under low V-neck tops, and a strapless, which can also be converted for a halterneck, one-strap or racer back."




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So, what have I deduced from my research? You just gotta try, try, try before you buy. Don't just depend on what the sales assistant tells you: try the bra on in a fitting room, and make sure it is returnable for a full refund after you take it home (provided you keep your receipt and tags). I did okay on my trip to Debenhams as I tried so many different sizes so I was able to figure out which fit, and was most comfortable. Make sure it is the chest strap taking the pressure and not the shoulder straps, and if in doubt, go to a specialist bra retailer who will really know their onions. You may pay a little more, but isn't it worth it for the comfort? Oxfam are also on the hunt for those barely-worn bras from your undie drawer, so that bra you wore once then realised that "actually, this doesn't feel right" could benefit communities in Senegal.


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It's about time bra manufacturers dispensed the thought that we would all like to go up two cup sizes or have fantastic cleavage; I would take a well-fitting bra over either of these claims. Goodbye, boys: it's time to look after the ladies!

Monday, 2 July 2012

COUTURE GETS COOL

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For a very, very long time, the couture shows have basically been irrelevant to the rest of the fashion world. Couture shows were a publicity stunt, and with pieces at such ridiculous prices the market for the actual clothing was tiny - basically all customers were from Brazil, Russia, India and China, otherwise known as the BRIC nations. The spectacular shows often made a loss, this only being offset by the brand's perfume and cosmetics sales.

However, with the appointment of Raf Simons at Dior and the perenially cool Versace being a relatively new addition to the couture calendar, I can actually see couture having an influence on mainstream fashion. Yes, the prices and small market will remain the same, but I see pret-a-porter designers and the high street lifting ideas from these shows and taking them forward into everyday pieces.

Nowadays social media is the best - and easiest - way to gauge the hype from a certain event or happening, and these were Twitter's trending topics today straight after the Dior show (discount the Doritos one as that's a sponsored topic). Not bad considering couture's previously stuffy image:


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Of the four designers' shows available to currently view on style.com, three are completely unrecognisable from couture's "norm": not a pouffy, feathered, beaded ballgown in sight. Versace, Bouchra Jarrar and Dior (all below) are representative of what a stylish, modern woman wants to wear, whether she is a multi-millionaire or works in a shop. You can't exactly say that about the Alexis Mabille collection - which is all shiny sweetie wrappers, layers of tulle, and slightly silly hairdos. 
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All very lovely - especially Dior's yellow gown, which I could even wear around Manchester, albeit with a bra - but not particularly groundbreaking. Today's focus was naturally on Dior, with Raf Simons' first show designing for the house; John Galliano's departure (or rather removal) seemingly marked the end of hugely dramatised, budget-smashing couture fashion shows. Of course it would have been completely wrong for Raf to completely change his minimal aesthetic to imitate Galliano's grandeur, but is this new minimalism really want the BRIC ladies are craving, or will they miss the frothy gowns and dramatic silhouettes of yore? Only time - and the couture houses' orders - will tell.

Images style.com & nowfashion.com

Tuesday, 26 June 2012

NEVER CLOSE YOUR EYES


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I am so excited to show off my first piece of Wildfox! I can't explain why I am suddenly so obsessed with the brand - unless it's airborne and I caught it from meeting the Style Rawr - but I have not felt this way about a clothing company since I was thirteen and demanded everything I owned was Nike. Nike Air Max Triax, Nike trackies (yeah I wore trackies), and this enormous Nike coat that I insisted on having despite JJB only stocking a size much too large for me. What a brat I was.

Anyway, I digress. I'm totally obsessed. Everyone and their dog has blogged about the brand, I realise, and I'm still trying to pinpoint exactly what makes Wildfox so special - maybe it's the dreamy lookbooks featuring models we all want to be, or their positive web presence that is just so right for now. We're all craving a little escapism, especially in these frugal times, and Wildfox provides just that.

Admittedly their price point is not ideal for a frugal purse, however much I love it, but dig through the many sales on right now and you'll find some bargains. This vest was from Harvey Nichols and is now sold out online, but is also available through Alexandalexa.com for £39. ASOS went into sale yesterday too, with lots of Wildfox at reduced prices.


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I'm wearing:
H&M kimono
Oasis pleather jeans
Love Label boots
Tunisian market bag
Vintage (mum's) necklace

What do you think of Wildfox? Are they just overpriced t-shirts, or are you taken in by their ethos?

Sunday, 24 June 2012

FASHION IN A FIELD

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We have arrived at the time of year, dear reader, where you may decide to pitch a tent in a muddy field, drink beer, and dance like a loon. Many happy memories will be made at this time - dependent on the amount of beer consumed, of course. Sadly, I fear my days of festival-going are over, until I can stay in a luxury hotel for the course of the festival, being ferried to and fro each morning, freshly showered. The majority of festival fashion blog posts are not quite as realistic as Hello, Terri Lowe: whilst in my hotel-staying fantasy I could wear practically whatever I want, Terri cites a kagoule and wellingtons as your most important items to bring along to your festival outing.

I, however, am immersed within this luxurious festival fantasy, and my ideal festival kit is slightly more ridiculous. Keep your muddy mitts off my Versace! Don't let your wellies near my Wildfox! The tee is quite apt as Woodstock would have been my ideal festival to visit: three days of peace and music is right up my street.


WIN A FESTIVAL ESSENTIALS PACK WITH DANIEL FOOTWEAR AND GLITZ & GRIME
(Hunter wellies are available from Daniel Footwear, and the very fabulous Sheree is currently giving away a pair at Glitz & Grime)


But worry not, readers, I haven't always had such delusions of grandeur. I've been to many different festivals over the years - my first Leeds festival I spent entirely in a t-shirt and shorts, and at Gatecrasher in 2008 I wore about three coats and tracky bottoms all weekend due to the horrendous weather. Funnily enough the best festival experience I've ever had was when my little home town of Northwich held Whatfest in 2009.  The only band of note playing were Dodgy, but that didn't matter - because all of my friends were there, the beer was reasonably priced, and actually if you got too wet you could just get your mum to bring you home for a shower and be back on the festival site within the hour. Perfect.

Sadly the festival made a loss and hasn't been held again, but I will always have the memories of the fantastic weekend, and the photos of the quite frankly bizarre outfits I chose to wear. I think the best rule of festival fashion is that if you can't have a bit of a chuckle at your outfits when you get home, then you didn't do it right.


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Friday, 22 June 2012

D.K.N.Y..? WE WANT TO!


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Menswear is the hot topic on everyone's lips at the moment - what with the first menswear-dedicated London Collections showing some truly innovative collections, and the ever fabulous Pitti Uomo currently running in Florence. I can appreciate a well-cut suit and will happily steal one of Chris's t-shirts if the outfit calls for it, but my knowledge goes no further: subsequently I take every opportunity to expand my awareness.

Of course, if this involves looking at male models for an extended period of time, it's something I just have to suck up and get on with. This was the case at the DKNY store on The Avenue on Thursday - part of Spinningfields' /Series of events. Funnily enough it was mainly ladies in attendance - young ones at that - and I am sure they were going through the same anguish of beholding the models filling the clothes at DKNY's fashion show.

If I were a male discussing female models I would surely be accused of being sexist, so perhaps it's time to move onto scrutinising the clothes. The Avenue's DKNY is solely a menswear store (womenswear is available in the standalone store on King Street or in Harvey Nichols), specialising in smart-casual and business attire. Considering the label's prestige the prices are reasonable: you can expect to pay in the region of £300 for a suit. An excellent suit is the antithesis of women's fast fashion turnover. They are worn on many occasions for many years, so it really is worth investing a few pennies. The recent womenswear trend for mismatching seems to have extended onto men's suiting (see above), which is an interesting and low-cost way of updating the look.

The smart-casual attire is fashionable without being vulgar, with even Manchester's very own Fashion Boy buying into the brand with a cobalt blue pair of chinos, as seen in the fashion show.

I love an androgynous look and enjoy mixing a button-up shirt with a floral skirt, but I do think DKNY is definitely one for the boys. Could you see yourself mixing these pieces into your wardrobe - or would you keep them for your boyfriend?



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Tuesday, 19 June 2012

MR BOND, I EXPECT YOU TIE DYE

Whilst Goldfinger may have had to wait a long time for Mr Bond to tie dye anything (that man never has any downtime; plus I'm not sure it sits so well with the suave look) I have been rather keen on dying, bleaching, ripping, cutting, and studding my clothes as of late. It's mainly because I've been craving a fresh look without the budget to match, but also it's a whole lot of good clean fun. 

So a request from Lois at Carrot Top couldn't have come at a better time: Dirty Fresh Laundry wanted to send me a brand new t-shirt, then I was to customise it in any which way I could. YES. Basically a licence to go crazy. 

When it arrived it looked like this:


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The t-shirt is of an excellent quality, totally opaque, and the print is the sort that will age pleasingly. Just a heads up on sizing: I'm a 10-12 on top and this is a men's small. I ordered in that size as I thought I'd have a little extra fabric to play with but it's quite fitted, so just a warning for when you order.

First things first - protect your bath, or wherever you choose to tie dye. I don't want any mums or landlords after my guts! The binbag in my bath was fairly futile but it did help a little, and whenever I got dye on the porcelain, floor, or anywhere, I cleaned it up straight away - you just don't know how it will stain, and you're better safe than sorry, no?


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After that I prepared my t-shirt. I followed Shannon's advice - holding the tee in the middle, spin it around so it's like a coil. Tie bands or string around to keep in place. The tighter you tie, the more white space will be left.

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You can be as creative as you like with this - when researching tie dyes I found this page and loved all the different dye shapes, so since my boyfriend has been nagging for a tie dye tee for a while, I decided to experiment a little with the shape of his.
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Now it's time to make the dye. Glove up! Again, the dye might stain your skin, or worse - you might be allergic to it. Be careful.
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I could only find Dylon machine wash dyes (is it me or are dyes harder to find now? In my teens I'm sure I could pick them up from the supermarket or my local chemist. Anyway, I digress) in Flamingo Pink and Ocean Blue, so I made them up in bottles with sports lids (another great tip from Shannon). I only had one sports lid bottle so carved a hole in a normal lid. Again, be careful! I used one part salt, one part dye, and four parts warm water.
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Then I attacked my tees with the dyes. I began gingerly but ended up throwing the two full bottles over two t-shirts. I unravelled them to check how I was doing - the long, thin patterned one looked amazing how it was, but the spiral one needed a bit more colour. I opened it out and added more colour to suit.
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Leave your tee for at least an hour. I left mine all afternoon, conscious of the fact I'd used machine washing dye! I don't have any space in my flat to hang them - especially due to our cream carpet - so placed them in buckets. Use this time to clean the bathroom, think of outfits to wear with your tee, have a brew, daydream about Michael Fassbender.. you get the picture. Then rinse, using a little bit of fabric washing powder or liquid.

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After waiting all afternoon I couldn't wait any longer so bunged them in the tumble dryer after they'd drained for ten minutes. My brief from Dirty Fresh Laundry was to customise this tee in any which way possible, so a few knots and studs later, my tee was finally finished.
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This tee will almost certainly be most at home on my next trip to Ibiza.. but until then will make the perfect layering piece. I really think the key here is to have a go - I haven't tie dyed since Brownies and even then I probably wasn't responsible enough to do any of the process. Admittedly I like the pattern on my boyfriend's tee better - I will have to get him to model it - but the beauty of tie dye is that you're not completely sure how the pattern will work out. Let me know if you do try, and send me pictures of your dye pattern!