Anyway, without further adieu, here are what I deem to be the key shapes, fabrics, and colours of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012.
L-R Jason Wu, Thakoon, Cushnie et Ochs
Certainly the most prevalent silhouette in NYFW featured a peplum. This cute little detail was also featured at Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rodarte. Perfect for adding curves and also hiding any lumps and bumps in the diffcult hip area, this will be a wardrobe saviour for us all next Spring.
Dropped & Low Waists
L-R Reed Krakoff, Theyskens’ Theory, Tommy Hilfiger
Has high-waist fatigue finally set in for designers? It will be interesting to me to learn how to style a low waist, both in dress and trouser form, in a chic way. The last time this rise was in fashion was when I was a skinny teenager, without a love handle to my name. I may leave this look for sixteen-year-old models, but you may want to experiment with a dropped waist next season.
L-R BCBG Max Azria, Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung
Great news for those of us who don’t have a figure like Anna Selezneva (far right, in Prabal Gurung); yeah, you can show your entire midriff, as at Proenza Schouler. Or you can pick your favourite (or most toned) body part, and show it off. Cold shoulder, anyone?
A couple more bits that didn’t merit their own section, but are still important in the scheme of things… Blouses are still buttoned up high, and the more interesting the collar, the better. Keep your tailoring fluid and long-lined: an essential item next Spring will be a long-line blazer, as at The Row and 3.1 Philip Lim. Your summer shower cover-up? A hooded parka. Even Victoria Beckham got in on the act.
L-R Alexander Wang, Theyskens’ Theory, Diane von Furstenberg
Texture was added to many looks in New York by the use of mesh panels. If you don’t fancy going for the teen goth look, work mesh accents, like the pockets at Alexander Wang. (Bit of a tangent, but mad props to one of my favourite models, Julia Nobis – far right – for walking so many shows so far this season. You go!)
L-R rag & bone, Altuzarra, Michael Kors
Now seemingly perennial, leather was a big fabric for this season. Keep your eyes peeled: it’s now so fluid and buttersoft, you may visually mistake it for silk. There’s no need to dress top-to-toe in leather; just wear a simple shift with leather detailing, like at Altuzarra.
L-R Theyskens’ Theory, Peter Som, DKNY
You can wear your trousers like a mirror, as at Theory, or have a chic sheen to your skirt, like DKNY. Add a little texture to your outfit by means of a shiny fabric, and you’ll be bang on trend for next Spring.
As mentioned earlier, peek-a-boo cut-outs will be big, but if you aren’t feeling so confident, cover them with a sheer fabric. Crochet is totally OK; even better if you can add a tasselled detail to swing from the hemline.
I could talk about colours. I could easily talk about them for a very long time, as I’m a big fan of them. However, I think the best way to represent the colours of New York spring/summer 2012 is with this nifty image I (painstakingly) made…
I couldn’t write a NYFW S/S 2012 trend report without recommending you check out the entire Preen collection. Gorgeous ice-cream pastel shades all mixed together in squares, checks, and origami folds. It represents everything that NYFW was: chic, understated, whilst remaining colourful and interesting, with some fabulous design details.
Finally, I had to share with you the gorgeous Theyskens’ Theory ballgown. Theory has remained in the fashion editors’ lust-list ever since the amazing Olivier Theyskens took the reins in October 2010. I’m not sure what I loved so much about this piece, maybe it was just so unexpected after the masculine tailoring of the rest of the collection. If I were an A-lister, I’d definitely consider this for a red carpet event.
I hope you enjoyed this report as much as I enjoyed making it! All images are courtesy of style.com. If you would like to use any of it, I’d really appreciate it if you’d credit me, and maybe drop me an email.